|
Today, the Jaeger-LeCoultre
Reverso is one of the most famous watches ever produced,
but were you aware that the company got its start producing
ebauches for other companies? A little known fact about
Jaeger-LeCoultre is that in addition to producing movements
for its own watches, the company has also produced movements
for famous watch houses such as Vacheron Constantin, Audemars
Piguet, and IWC. As a matter of fact, in the early part
of the 20th Century, Jaeger-LeCoultre even supplied ebauches
to the great firm of Patek Philippe. Then as now, Jaeger-LeCoultre
was considered one of the finest watchmakers in Switzerland.
The year was 1833 when thirty-year-old Antoine LeCoultre,
son of Vallee de Joux watchmaker Jacques LeCoultre, opened
a small factory in the town of Le Sentier. Amazingly enough,
the current Jaeger-LeCoultre factory is only a few feet
away from the site of the original factory. In any event,
LeCoultre soon proved himself to be a gifted watchmaker,
but an even more brilliant inventor. In 1844, LeCoultre
revolutionized the watch industry with the invention of
the millionometer, an instrument with which measurements
of up to one thousandths of a millimeter could be made accurately.
As a result, precisely finished components could be manufactured,
resulting in greatly improved accuracy in timekeeping. Likewise,
the metric system became the universal measuring standard
in watchmaking, while other systems were rendered obsolete.
LeCoultre's
motto -- "we must base our experience on science"
- was particularly true when it came to manufacturing precision
movements and tools. The artistry came later at the hands
of a master watchmaker, who assembled, decorated and regulated
the movements. In short order, LeCoultre became the leading
supplier of movements, parts and tools to the watchmaking
industry in Switzerland.
LeCoultre movements
were so highly regarded, in fact, that until 1910, the company
provided Patek Philippe with most of its raw movements.
It was only in later years that Patek Philippe built its
own movements from scratch. In the meantime, other companies
had come to rely exclusively on LeCoultre's products, from
which they would create finished watches. LeCoultre's success
was so great that between 1900 and 1919, 40,000 raw movements
were produced. Movements sold for between 100 and 400 francs
each, not an inconsiderable sum of money back then.
In 1925, the
grandson of the firm's founder, David LeCoultre, merged
his company with that of Edmond Jaeger, the exclusive supplier
of watch movements to Cartier. This is when the modern company
known as Jaeger-LeCoultre first came into existence. Incredibly
enough, up to this point, Jaeger-LeCoultre had not sold
any watches under its own name. The merger, however, prompted
further technical innovations, not the least of which was
a case made from stainless steel, as well as the creation
of the smallest mechanical movement in the world, which
weighed less than one gram.
The year 1931
saw the introduction of the Reverso, a wristwatch that could
be turned 180 degrees within the case, thereby protecting
the crystal and dial. It was a fantastic creation and one
that was enthusiastically received by the public. Unfortunately,
the worldwide economic crisis and World War II conspired
to prevent the Reverso from achieving its full potential.
Changing fashions coupled with the advent of waterproof
watches might have forever doomed the watch to obscurity,
had it not been for an Italian dealer who visited the factory
in the 1960's and noticed a number of unused Reverso cases
sitting in a watchmakers' drawer. The Italian dealer bought
the cases and fitted them with movements. The finished watches
were an instant sell-out and the rest is history. Today,
the Reverso is by far Jaeger-LeCoultre's most popular model.
Another interesting
story concerns David LeCoultre's bid for Patek Philippe.
In 1932, Patek Philippe was in major financial straits and
looking for a white knight. LeCoultre, whose company manufactured
movements for Patek, wanted to acquire a majority interest.
He came close to finalizing a deal, but the Stern brothers,
whose company supplied the dials used in Patek Philippe
watches, ultimately acquired the company. Although Patek
Philippe has certainly prospered under the Stern family's
management, it is nonetheless interesting to contemplate
what effect a Patek Philippe/Jaeger-LeCoultre merger may
have had on the Swiss watch industry.
Needless to
say, the company has continued to thrive, introducing such
innovations as the Memovox, Futurematic, Atmos Clock (which
in and of itself could be the subject of an article) and
strikingly original movements such as the world's thinnest
automatic with a thickness of just 2.35 mm, just to name
a few. The thin automatic movement in particular was an
incredible success, as both Vacheron Constantin and Audemars
Piguet featured it in wristwatches advertised as being the
world's slimmest self-winding timepieces. During the 1970's
and early 1980's, Jaeger-LeCoultre produced a 36 jewel,
self-winding calibre for Patek Philippe. Once again, both
companies had come full circle.
On a final note,
it is worth noting that Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the few
companies in Switzerland that still produces its own movements,
cases, dials, hands, and bracelets. Virtually every single
component in a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch is hand-finished,
produced in-house, and this in turn results in strict quality
control. As a result, Jaeger-LeCoultre watches are recognized
as being among the very finest hand-crafted watches available
and evidence of this can be seen in the fact that Jaeger-LeCoultre
regularly produces such masterpieces as the Reverso Tourbillon
and Reverso Minute Repeater. There is also the Master Control
series of watches, which boast 1,000 hours of testing and
assembly at the patient hands of a master watchmaker.
In any event,
if you are contemplating the purchase of a Jaeger-LeCoultre
wristwatch, you've made an excellent choice. It's a highly
prestigious and respected brand with a long and wonderful
history, as well as a proven track record. Top
|