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The oldest watch
company in Geneva, Vacheron Constantin, also has the singular
honor of having produced the single most expensive watch
of all time -- the "Kallista" (Greek for "the
most wonderful") -- which is set with over 130 carats
of emerald cut diamonds, each with its own GIA certificate.
The Kallista's original selling price was over $5 million,
and today, its value is estimated at over twice that figure
should the watch ever be offered at auction. Needless to
say, there are many passionate fans of Vacheron Constantin.
Genevois watchmaker
Jean-Mark Vacheron founded the company in 1755 at just 24
years of age. Vacheron was known for expensive and finely
finished timepieces. His personal ambition was to create
timepieces that would stand out for their elegance and quality.
In 1785, Vacheron's son Abraham took over the company, which
survived the French Revolution, among other economic crises.
By 1814, third-generation
watchmaker Jacques Barthelemy Vacheron was leading the company,
but Vacheron realized that he needed a partner if the company
was to survive. He could not oversee the company's day-to-day
operations and travel overseas to market the watches. So
it was that in 1819, Francois Constantin -- son of a wealthy
grain merchant -- became a partner in the firm. From that
point forward, the firm went under the name "Vacheron
& Constantin", a name that is to this day synonymous
with the finest quality timepieces.
By all accounts,
Francois Constantin led an opulent lifestyle and was quite
a flamboyant character. He relished his role as Vacheron
& Constantin's representative and journeyed around the
world selling watches. Whenever Constantin traveled, the
firm protected itself by constructing huge shipping cases
with all sorts of hidden compartments. Francois Constantin
also led the charge in opening new markets overseas, especially
in North America, where the Vacheron & Constantin agency
was eventually established in 1864. Francois Constantin's
unique motto remains the company's motto to this day: "Do
better when possible, and it is always possible!"
Another key
protagonist in the Vacheron Constantin story is Georges-Auguste
Leschot. A mechanical genius, Leschot had experimented with
machines that could be used for series production of watch
components. This was a revolutionary concept to be sure,
but the watchmaking establishment ridiculed Leschot.
In 1839, Leschot
was hired as Technical Director for the House, which wanted
to improve their production methods. Thanks to Leschot's
cost-saving inventions, including a turning and drilling
machine that could drill holes in the exact same position
every time, Vacheron & Constantin was able to sell their
watches for far less than what other comparable watches
were selling for. In spite of the cost savings, Leschot
insisted that every part still be worked on by hand. As
a result, the watchmakers were able to focus more of their
attention on finishing, rather than fabrication of component
parts.
A series of
Vacheron and Constantin heirs took over the company in the
wake of Francois Constantin's death in 1854, followed by
Jacques Barthelemy Vacheron's death in 1863. Interestingly
enough, the company was even led by two women at one point
when Charles Vacheron, an heir apparent, died at the age
of 25. Laure Vacheron-Pernessin, the widow of Charles Vacheron,
and Catherine-Etienne Vacheron, the 88-year-old widow of
Jacques Barthelemy Vacheron, made an unlikely team, but
they successfully guided the company into the 20th Century.
In 1877, the
name of the firm was officially registered as "Vacheron
& Constantin, Fabricants, Geneve", while salesman
Jean-Francois Constantin was promoted to partner. Moreover,
the company started using the Maltese cross as its trademark,
which is still in use today. After Laure Vacheron-Pernessin
and Catherine-Etienne Vacheron passed away, the firm was
re-organized as a stock company in 1887. Several years of
declining sales ensued, but the firm bounced back in the
early part of the 20th Century, when they successfully capitalized
on the newfound demand for wristwatches. A number of spectacular
pocket watches were also sold, including an ultra-complicated
pocket watch that was presented to the Egyptian King Fouad
I in 1931.
Although Vacheron
& Constantin suffered through lean times during the
Great Depression, the one bright spot was that Charles Constantin
became president of the company in 1936, the first time
that a Constantin had led the company since the mid-1850s.
Unfortunately, with the advent of World War II, sales once
again plummeted. Georges Ketterer acquired a majority ownership
position and under Ketterer's watch, Vacheron & Constantin
bounced back. It was during Ketterer's reign that they produced
some of their most famous watches, such as the "Chronometre
Royale" wristwatch.
Georges Ketterer
died in 1987, and the company changed hands, yet sales have
improved and Vacheron is now producing nearly 20,000 watches
a year.
Vacheron Constantin
(the ampersand was dropped sometime in the late 1970s) recently
introduced a number of popular models such as the sporty
"Overseas", as well as the "Les Historiques"
series of mechanical wristwatches whose designs are clearly
modeled after classic designs from the 1940s and 1950s.
Vacheron Constantin
also continues to manufacture a limited number of ultra-complicated
watches, such as the Tourbillon watches, the unique "Grand
Mercator" and a magnificent minute repeater/perpetual
calendar. The prices for these watches are obviously quite
high, but for many watch enthusiasts, a Vacheron Constantin
represents the ultimate expression of the watchmaker's art
-- an heirloom to be passed down through the generations
and treasured by those lucky enough to own one.
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